Chanchao's Chiang Mai Food Review is a good source of information on the fast-changing culinary scene, though it has not been updated for some time.

Budget

Thai:

• Anusarn Market, Chang Khlan Road (same side of road as "Galare Food Centre" but much further up beyond Loi Kroh crossroad towards Sri Dornchai) is a busy outdoor night market with lots of little Thai restaurants and food vendors. Great atmosphere.

• Brick Road Cafe, Ratchadamneon Road (about 200 metres after the 2nd crossroads on the main walking street from Thapae Gate to Wat Phra Singh). English-Thai run cafe with a relaxed atmosphere and extensive Thai menu, produced by experienced Thai chefs, plus a host of excellent low-priced Western options.

• Galare Food Centre, Chang Khlan Road (opposite the Night Bazaar Building), has a large open-air food court, featuring free Thai classical dance performances nightly. All food is paid for with coupons; most mains 20-50 baht.

• Kuaytiaw Reua Koliang, Moon Muang Road (near Ratchamankha Road; no English sign) serves authentic kuaytiow reua (literally "boat noodles", rice noodles in dark broth with beef). It's good stuff anyway at 25 baht a pop.

• Ratana’s Kitchen, Tha Pae Road (near Tha Pae Gate), has a wide range of Thai dishes at low prices (30-60 baht for many) and a huge vegetarian selection.

• Re-Feel Café, 48/4-5 Rachavithi Road offers great (cheap) Thai food, good atmosphere, friendly staff and free billiards.

Western:

• Fish'N'chips Shop, Ratchawitee Road +66 53-418210. Fresh, crispy. The name says it all.

• Mike's Hamburger Stand, on the corner of Chaiyapoom Road and Chang Moi Road (along the east side of the moat) and on Nimmanhaemin Road (across from Soi 1) are brightly-lit, "old-school" joints - just stools and a counter in an open shop. OK hamburgers for 60 baht, excellent onion rings. If you're tired of rice and noodles this is nice place to stop for lunch while walking around town, and an even better place to fill your stomach on the way home from the bars. Bacon, or ham and egg sandwiches on the breakfast menu. Open 09:00-15:00. The franchise now includes a shop in the Anusarn Market (see above) with others opening in Bangkok soon.